| abstract |
Use of ascorbic acid derivative of formula (I) as stimulant of epidermic lipogenesis. Use of at least one ascorbic acid derivative of formula (I) for improving synthesis of epidermic ceramides. R1 = H; R2 = sugar residue group selected from glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose and N-acetyl glucosamine, or -COR5 group; R5 = 1-20C linear, cyclic or branched and optionally substituted saturated (e.g. methyl, ethyl, (iso)propyl, (iso)butyl, tert.butyl, hexyl, heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, (iso)nonyl, decyl, undecyl (preferred) dodecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl or octadecyl) or non-saturated (selected from group of 2-5C radicals with one or more ethylenic unsaturations, especially allyl radical) hydrocarbon; or optionally substituted aryl (preferably benzyl) radical; or arylalkyl radical of formula (II); R, R' and R'' = identical or different H or hydroxy, alkoxy (methoxy (preferred), ethoxy or butoxy), fluoroalkoxy (preferably trifluoromethoxy) or alkyl carbonyloxy (acetoxy (preferred), propionyloxy or butyryloxy); R3, R4 = identical or different H or -COR5 group, or form together isopropylidene radical. The salt of (I) can also be used. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic process of skin hydration by application of composition containing, in appropriate medium, at least one derivative of ascorbic acid (I) as claimed. |